Just Because: The Intersection Of Watches And Eyewear: Alexanian's Golden Vision

There are two things that I wear every day—my watch and my glasses. While my clothes always change depending on the day of the week—most concerning, whether I will be wearing a tie or not—my watch and glasses are the two things I always have on. Now, it should come as no surprise, given my occupation, that I love watches, but I've been a fan of eye glasses even longer, seeing as how, for – gulp – my thirty-seven-and-a-half years, they have been required to be on my face if I want to be able to see. So imagine my excitement when both of these worlds collided as I walked into the Armoury a few weeks ago to meet Artur Alexanian, a goldsmith who has developed a new eyewear line inspired by watch design.

In 2000, Alexanian pioneered something remarkable: producing solid gold eyewear, each piece meticulously handcrafted in his workshop in the Netherlands. He creates 30-50 pieces annually, each taking approximately two weeks to complete. When I say no detail is overlooked, I mean it literally. Alexanian ventured into uncharted territory with virtually no recorded history of precious metals being extensively used in eyewear during the past century. By 2018, he had taken his craft even further by incorporating watchmaking techniques into his creations, elevating each piece to an unprecedented level of craftsmanship, and thus the Inspired By Watches Collection was born.

Despite being in the eyewear business, Alexanian is fundamentally a watch enthusiast. When he found himself seated next to a Geneva-based watchmaker at a Paris jewelry show several years ago, he began to see compelling parallels between the two crafts. This encounter sparked fresh inspiration, reminiscent of what drove him to use gold as the primary material for eyewear in the first place.

Yes, the gear rotates.

Drawing inspiration from horological legends such as Gérald Genta and Romain Gauthier and contemporaries like Rexhep Rexhepi and Max Büsser, Alexanian incorporates watchmaking elements into his eyewear designs. These range from something as simple as Roman numerals (I-XII) around the outside of the frames to bridges inspired by tourbillon mechanisms.

Having never worn gold (or a tourbillon) on my face before, I wondered how 18-karat frames would feel. The answer: surprisingly comfortable. Before I tried them on, Alexanian demonstrated how perfectly balanced the glasses are by resting them on just two extended fingers—they remained perfectly level. This balance is achieved through meticulous weight distribution, with a higher density of gold strategically placed on the temples and temple tips. If you're using glasses to read this article, as I am, I encourage you to try balancing your own frames on two fingers to appreciate the difference. As you might expect, the craftsmanship, details, and precious metals don't come together to form a cheap product, with Alexanian's glasses commonly costing from $15,000 to $25,000 depending on the details.

Because the weight is carefully counterbalanced behind the ear, Alexanian's creations feel remarkably light on the face, defying expectations of what solid gold eyewear might feel like. My favorite piece, which I believe perfectly encapsulates Alexanian's level of craftsmanship, is the B1257 18k White Gold Frame, which consists of nearly 400 individual white gold pieces individually welded onto the outside of the frames, as shown below, perfectly supported by (naturally) white gold screws. 

B1257 18k White Gold Frame

It doesn't get much better than speaking with artisans who are creating genuinely interesting and unconventional work—something Artur Alexanian exemplifies perfectly. He conducts select trunk shows throughout the year, giving newcomers and fans of the niche brand alike a rare opportunity to experience his handmade creations in person. If he's coming to a town near you, do yourself a favor and go see these glasses for yourself. The word is still out if gold actually improves your vision, but it can certainly provide inspiration.

For more information about Alexanian, click here.